Xbox One – Power Brick damaged!?

How-To: Repair by yourself!

The informations are refered to the old Xbox One with separate power supply!
If you have an Xbox One S or X, then you can’t use this tutorial.

Surely you have already unplugged the power cord for about 20 seconds and then plug it back in and tried again. In this case you have to contact the customer service of Xbox / Microsoft. You can reach the Xbox support via this link!

For all owners of an old big Xbox One this guide is made!

 What happens first?

Finally we have time to play again. Everything is fine and we want to turn on the console.

Unfortunately, nothing happens when you turn on the controller.
So we try to power-on by touching the touch sensor on the front of the console.
Nothing stirs here, too. Maybe you can hear a quiet “ping” or the hard disk is briefly triggered. Then there is silence again!

 Suggested Solution 1

Now there’s a good solution from Microsoft that you should try first!

  • 1. Unplug the power supply from the power socket and
  • 2. then also unplug it from the Xbox.

If the LED on the power supply is still lit, wait for it to turn fully extinguished and then for another 10 seconds.

Geekstyle Knowledge
This process completely discharges the components in the power supply and the device does a “power supply reset”. Due to the possibility of operating the power supply with different voltages, it adjusts itself automatically when connecting to power. Now, an overvoltage in the power grid can cause a bit of confusion for it. The result is: It doesn’t want to do his duty.

Now that the power supply is completely de-energized, we try once again to get used to our power grid.

  • 3. Plug the power adapter into the socket first.
  • 4. Now pay attention to the status LED. It should be consistent orange.
    If it flashes red or blinks then it needs an exchange, according to Microsoft.
  • 5. Now connect the power adapter plug to the Xbox One console.

Now there are 2 possible scenarios:

Option 1: The status LED is still orange.
In this case, the console turns on again. The power supply LED should now switch to white and the Xbox is useable.

Congratulations! The console is “repaired” ;-)
If the error occurs frequently or at each start, then a defective power supply is to blame. In that case you should continue reading.

Option 2: The status LED goes off immediately after plugging into the console.

In this case it seems to be a defect of the power supply. In rare cases, however, it is also an error on the console itself.

Now it will be something “legal”, but we have to hedge ourselves
  1. Opening the device voids the guarantee.
  2. You have to deal with a soldering iron and have to know the appropriate safety regulations and observe.
  3. We completely exclude any liability for damage to man or machine!
  4. If there is still warranty for your device, first get in touch with the customer service. They will replace the device in case of non-self-inflicted damage.
  5. Outside the warranty, a replacement part can be purchased from the manufacturer or a retailer.
  6. You should read the manual carefully before you start.


First we open the case of the power supply. This is fixed with 4 screws on the bottom. To get to the screws, the rubber-plates must be removed. These are very difficult to remove. The rubber plates are connected to a plastic ring. This fits exactly into the screw hole.

To save time, I cut off the plates and levered the plastic ring out.

After removing the screws, we can easily open the case. There are no unnecessary clips or bonds.

When you lift the lid, you see a cable connection. This connects the board with the fan in the upper housing part. The cable from the fan can be easily removed, because it is only attached with a plug connector. It can simply stripped off.

Now that the lid has been completely removed and set aside, wehave the opportunity to take a closer look at the component-side of the power supply board. It should look like this or at least very similar to this.

The actual power supply can now be easily removed from the lower housing part. Again, there are no screws, clips or glue used.

First we check the electrolytic capacitors on the component side. Depending on the model of the power supply, there are different positions and/or numbers of it. To check it is easy: You will recognizes defective electrolytic capacitors by a curvature on the top.

Here’s a picture comparing new and broken

The malefactors should be found quickly. If it’s not up to the electrolytic capacitors, we’ll have to use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the resistors and. Even the diodes can be checked quickly - it may not lock anymore.

For me there were three Elkos with 16v / 2200μF which have the “spirit abandoned”. Easily recognized by the curvature at the top.

Make sure you only use Elkos that have the same capacity value.
The value of Volt can be higher. For example, I have installed 25V / 2200μF. These were also a little longer and bigger than the built-in parts.

To get to the bottom of the board, the shield must be removed. This is soldered and must first be soldered off with the soldering iron at the two connection points.

Find the solder points that belong to the defective components. Also pay attention of the polarity of electrolytic capacitors and diodes. Notice, mark or note the position of the minus pole. On the board this should usually already been marked!

Now we completed the checking and start to replace the parts.

Work very clean and tidy when soldering. Never hurt or damage any other components. Remember that lead-free solder is used and you need to adjust the soldering temperature accordingly. Pay attention to the tracks made of solder! It quickly happens to make a connection accidentally, which you don’t want to have.

Also pay attention to the length of the wire legs of your components. Shorten these after soldering and pay attention to a clean positioning on the board.

It was bad as this happens to me.

In this context:
After being heated the solder seems to “peel off” slightly . These solder sheets behave “sticky” and stick to components or the board. Apparently they like to connect the “solder-tracks” and can not be easily removed.

Cleans the board after work or blows it off (not by mouth) or whatever your preferred method is.

Remember A short is the end for your power supply - and in the worst case the end of life for your console!

In the end you need to fix the cover of the bottom again.

Now that you have replaced the components, you should take a minute for the upper power supply cover. Unscrew the fan and clean it. Many users report that the power brick makes loud noises. Especially after a few years of use and depending on the place of installation (for example, a room with carpet), the fan is full of dust and dirt. To prevent another reopening, you should take the time to clean it.

Remember to reconnect the fan to the board.

I have already written that my capacitors are slightly higher and bigger than the original parts were. I couldn’t close the lid of the case completely.

The plastic-parts in it, which direct the flow of air through the housing and around the components, were pushing to the capacitors. My solution: I simply sanded the bars down a bit with a “Dremel”.

Do not forget the small optical fiber that sits on the status LEDs and guides the light out of the case.

Knight Rider Soundtrack (Turbo Boost Edition) on Spotify
Knight Rider Soundtrack (Turbo Boost Edition) on Spotify

After you have properly locked the power supply, we can start to test it:

First reconnect the power supply to the power socket and pay attention to the status LED. This should shine orange throughout.
Then you can connect the power supply with the console. Now the LED should continue to glow orange and the Xbox can be turned on.

After the console is switched on, it should start again as usual and change the status LED on the power supply to white.

We hope you are happy again. Have fun playing!

Copyright Copyright

Your comments

  • On 30 December 2021 at 15:05, by Smi Replying to: Xbox One – Netzteil defekt!?

    Wirklich sehr tolle Anleitung und besonders ausführlich erklärt, ohne etwas vergessen zu haben! ;)
    Danke dafür. Liebe Grüße

  • On 9 March at 16:55, by Kay Replying to: Xbox One – Netzteil defekt!?

    SUPER tolle Anleitung, ich hatte genau den Fehler.
    Die 5 Volt lagen noch an, aber die 12V kamen nur nach 3 min,. oder manchmal auch garnicht. Wenn Sie kamen, dann nur langsames aufflackern des weißen Lichtes, was auf defekte ELKOS hindeutete.
    Ich haben neben den 3 aufgeblähten und defekten 2.200 µF 16 V auch noch den einen 1500 µF 16 V ausgetauscht.
    Das Löten war in der Tat sehr fummelig und leider waren die drei 2.200 µF 16 V auch etwas größer, lt. Datenblatt 25 mm und die auf der Platine 24 mm, mit noch etwas Lötdifferenz kam ich auf effektiv 25,6 mm und musste das Gehäuse leider auch bearbeiten.
    Ich habe dazu eine kleine Heißluftpistole verwendet und das Plastik etwas weggeschmolzen.
    Hat alles zusammen fast drei Stunden gedauert. Die Bauteile bei Conrad Electronic haben nur 1,23 EUR gekostet, am teuersten war der Versand mit 6,95 EUR :).


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